Tiny-M

!!!!!!!!!!!!!! August 2023 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Due to a serious illness, I cannot continues the project.
Unfortunately i cannot tell, when i could work again.

A compact printer with build volume: 150x150x150 mm

This is a Corona project.
It is based on Voron V0 .

Bowden and direct drive extruder using CroXY's Sailfin, Annex Engineering's Sherpa Mini or Bondtech's LGX Lite are now available.

Current Version is V4:

Latest source whole printer: Tiny-M V4 Onshape

Old source is available at Tiny-M V3 Onshape.

This is my first project of this kind. Maybe something will be missing, is not well documented, or just messy. I apologize for that. Join the Discord to meet other Tiny-M builders and have your questions answered.

Why the whole thing?

I had many 3D printer parts in my pocket from my old no longer used printer. I cleared out my pocket and took what I had in the box without buying anything new. After checking all parts, I recognize, that I could build a converted Voron V0 with this parts.

Hardware

- 2020 Nut 5 I-Typ alu profiles (6mm wide slot Misumi 2020 will work).  Must have 4.0-4.2mm hole at ends.  B-Typ can work with Helicoils to give a 5mm tapped end.
- Nema 17 stepper motors
- 1x 200mm MGN12H for X
- 2x 200mm MGN9H for Y
- 2x 200mm MGN12H for Z
- FYSETC Cheetah V1.1b (TMC2209) or SKR Mini E3 with TMC2209
- 24V everywhere

BOM

DRAFT BOM is available now. Thanks to CookieSN! An updated BOM for V4 is currently in review.

WARNING ! The store Funssor on aliexpress sell a V0 kit with pictures of my Tiny-M. He use picture from github. To be clear IT IS NOT a Tiny-M Kit. Please don't buy it if you want to build a Tiny-M.

Build Tips

There are 3 versions of the XY-Joins. V4 is recommended.

V2 - use 2GT 20T pulleys - No Set Screw Hub
- The outer diameter of the flanges from the pulleys for XY Joins will not fit.
- You will need to grind the flanges to fit.
V3 - use 2GT 20T toothed idler and no M5 Nuts
V4 - split into 3 parts
- removed one M5 screw for better alignment
- optimized belt path to use E3D idler (10mm high) or chinese (9mm high)
- some design changes
- more rigid

Parts are best printed out of ABS or ABS+ with 0.4 nozzle with 0.48 extrusion width, 0.2-0.3 layer height, 5 top/bottom layers, 4 perimeters, 40% infill (triangular recommended). Skirts can be printed out of pretty much any filament type.

There are drill and tapping jigs if you wish to drill and tap your extrusions yourself. The drilled holes are for blind joints and aren't necessary if using corner brackets.